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BREAKING SURF NEWS
APR
08
What are trapped waves?
By:
on
APR
08
When ocean waves roll toward shore, they rarely hit the beach head-on. More often, they arrive at an angle. At some point, they can transform into trapped waves. That simple detail sets off a chain reaction beneath the surface, bending wave paths and redistributing energy in ways that are not always obvious from the sand. One of the most intriguing results of this process is something called a "trapped wave." We kept the concept between quotation marks, but only for the first time, because there's no other way to identify them. They are really trapped. Willard Bascom described this effect in his book "Waves and Beaches" as something that happens when "waves strike the beach at an angle," and the underwater slope drops off steeply into deeper water. In those conditions, part of the wave energy does not just bounce back out to sea. It gets caught in a repeating pattern along the shoreline. And, by the way, they're not square waves, even though it all sounds
Read more >>
APR
07
'The Inevitable Return': a documentary on how the military shaped Southern California's lineups
By:
on
APR
07
Zachary Zezima is a surfer, animator, and filmmaker based in Los Angeles. His latest film, "The Inevitable Return," is a short documentary that explores how military technology and atomic testing became intertwined with contemporary surfing along San Diego's beaches. Using vérité footage and animation, the short movie follows Shuuluk, a Kumeyaay surfer, as he interacts daily with the effects and complexities of occupation on his land and in his sport, and reclaims it as a practice of joy, play, and connection. "The Inevitable Return" won the Jury Award from the Honolulu Museum of Art's Honolulu Surf Film Festival. It also screened at the Portuguese Surf Film Festival and the Maryland Film Festival, as well as at community events in San Diego, Oceanside, San Francisco, and Los Angeles. SurferToday.com sat down with Zezima to know more about a visual experience that is both about surfing and politics. What first sparked the idea for "The Inevitable
Read more >>
APR
02
Lunch Counter: America's most iconic natural river surfing wave
By:
on
APR
02
In western Wyoming, more than 800 miles (1,290 kilometers) from the nearest coastline, a powerful standing wave rises each spring on the Snake River. Known as Lunch Counter, it has become one of the most recognized river surf breaks in the United States and, we could easily say, in the world. Surfing here began in the late 1970s, not long after river surfing itself started to take shape in places like Munich's Eisbach River. Local pioneers in Jackson Hole began experimenting with boards on the Snake, and Lunch Counter quickly stood out. The wave offered something rare: consistency, power, and long rides in a natural setting. The canyon walls rise above the river, trees line the banks, and the road stays mostly out of sight. Camping nearby is simple and close to fauna and flora. Some surfers stay for days or weeks during peak flow, building their schedules around the river level. It's just us and Nature's creation. Over time, word spread. What was once a quiet local curiosity is now a s
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APR
01
How to spot a rip current
By:
on
APR
01
If you're a surfer or a beachgoer who enjoys swimming in the ocean, you've probably come across a rip current. But only after you're in it, right? Here's how to spot this potentially dangerous hazard. A rip current is a narrow, fast-moving channel of water that flows away from the shore. Its birth is relatively simple. It forms when waves push water toward the beach, and that water needs a way to return back out to sea. Instead of spreading evenly, it often funnels through deeper gaps or channels in the seabed, creating a concentrated stream that moves outward. Rip currents can appear on almost any beach with breaking waves. They are not rare or unusual. In fact, they are present on many beaches every day, even when the ocean looks calm. And that's why they can easily trigger panic in children and adults alike. Here's the thing: they do not pull you underwater. What makes them dangerous is how quickly they can carry you away from shore, often faster than an Olympic swimmer can swim. Wh
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MAR
31
The shocking figures behind drowning
By:
on
MAR
31
Drowning rarely dominates the news cycle, yet the data paints a clear and urgent picture. As shocking as it might sound, in the United States, it remains one of the most consistent and preventable causes of death, especially among children. But let's put official numbers from the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) on paper. Each year, there are about 4,000 fatal unintentional drownings, an average of 11 deaths per day. At the same time, another 8,000 nonfatal drownings occur, or about 22 per day. And we're not talking about minor incidents. Nearly 40 percent of drowning cases treated in emergency departments require hospitalization, transfer, or further care, compared to 10 percent for all unintentional injuries. For every child who dies from drowning, another 7 to 8 children receive emergency care after surviving a similar event. Overall, estimates also show around 4,000 total drowning deaths annually, including about 900 children and adolescents ages 0 to 19. Drown
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MAR
30
The surf looks dreadful but I'm paddling out
By:
on
MAR
30
How many times have you forced yourself into a wetsuit when everything you see is not worth the effort? It's counterproductive, but in the end, it's almost always worth it. Sometimes, we just have to go. There is nothing less exciting than watching a windblown sea with barely rideable waves and knowing that you can't postpone it anymore. It happened to me yesterday. I hadn't been in the water for weeks. Back-to-back storms made winter what it is really supposed to be, that is, the harshest season to surf the European Atlantic coastlines. I am used to paddling out in 12 °C (53 °F) water and air temperatures below 10 °C (50 °F), but you can't just put your feet in the water when all you can see is white water. It's just undoable from a surfing perspective. So, apart from mind surfing and revising your thoughts on the advantages of having a wave pool at your doorstep - maybe they could be useful and fun after all - there's little you can do to beat a North Atlantic winter
Read more >>
MAR
27
Ramin Beach: where surfing took root in Iran
By:
on
MAR
27
Along the southeastern edge of Iran, where the land thins toward Pakistan and the Arabian Sea begins to breathe, a small village has quietly become the country's surf capital. Ramin sits in Sistan and Baluchestan Province, near Chabahar, on the Gulf of Oman just outside the Strait of Hormuz. It is better known for maps of shipping routes and regional tensions than for surf forecasts, that's for sure. Yet over the past decades, waves have rewritten Ramin's identity. After all, they have been there forever, right? A bit like the Persian culture was one of the cradles of civilization. The coastline here faces directly into the Arabian Sea, leaving it open to long-period swells that travel northward, especially during the summer monsoon. That exposure, combined with a simple sandy shoreline, has turned Ramin into the unlikely center of surfing in Iran. A remote coastline with open water energy Ramin's geography is quite unique and explains everything. The Makran coast, stretching along th
Read more >>
MAR
25
Surfing in the age of constant recording
By:
on
MAR
25
Some living surfers are still from the time when there were no cameras shooting wave-riding. Imagine a world where there was no one capturing the timeless beauty of a well-ridden wave. Hardly believable, right? No surf photographers, no mainstream interest in the sport of kings. Nothing. Just humans elegantly dancing on unbroken ripples and magically walking on water. Everything was "in the moment." No gadgets to encapsulate the present so that, in the future, we could relive the past. And then, there was an opportunity for a periodical surf-related publication, which featured black and white images of people - like yourself - doing the things you loved. Slowly, the first book about surfing gave way to one, two, three magazines. And colored pictures made the dream as blue as the most perfect waves a surfer could be blessed with. Surfers realized they could pause their best moments. And then giant waterproof cameras got closer to the action. TV, movies, and surf cams The time
Read more >>
MAR
18
Paddling for the wrong wave: The role of decision-making in surfing
By:
on
MAR
18
Surfing involves more decision-making than one would imagine. Actually, dilemmas start way before you face that critical moment when you will have to paddle for or wait for the next wave(s). There is an interesting, unconfirmed fact/theory online that says an association football player makes between 3,000 and 6,000 decisions during a 90-minute match. The math behind it is quite simple: assuming the player makes a decision every two seconds, which is reasonable, they will reach 2,700 decisions at the end of the game. It compares to the average 1,000-3,000 decisions an adult makes daily at work. Interesting, isn't it? Association football players are constantly moving up and down the pitch, correcting their positioning, and supporting the creation of playable, attacking and defensive lines across the field. In other words, it's not just about passing and scoring goals. There's way more to football than that. Players are constantly making decisions and moving. In a way, it's a bit like c
Read more >>
MAR
16
Dopamine, travel, and dreams: The equation of the perfect wave
By:
on
MAR
16
Dopamine, crowded lineups, and the strange economics of surf travel, surf usually begins long before you actually enter the water. An early alarm. A quick check of the forecast. Another one, just in case the models have changed overnight. Coffee, a board in the car, and that small irrational hope every surfer knows: maybe today the ocean will cooperate. A few days ago, I drove for hours toward a spot in southern Sicily. When I arrived, the sea had decided - rarely but generously - to play along. A long, fast left was wrapping across the reef. Clean face, light wind, crystal water. The kind of wave that keeps running just long enough for you to think, briefly, that time might be slowing down. Waves like that don't show up often. Maybe two or three times a year, and even when the swell, wind, and tide look identical on paper, the ocean never produces replicas. Theory vs. practice Every wave is a one-time equation of variables that will never align in exactly the same way again. That, of
Read more >>
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